Fes
فاس · FezThe spiritual and cultural capital: the world's largest living medieval city.
Overview
Fes is Morocco's oldest imperial city, founded in the 9th century. Its old medina, Fes el-Bali, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the largest car-free urban areas in the world, with thousands of lanes, workshops, fountains and historic schools. It is the home of the Al Quaraouiyine, considered the oldest continuously operating university in the world. A visit here feels like travelling back in time.
What makes it unique
- Al Quaraouiyine, founded in 859 by a woman, Fatima al-Fihri.
- The Chouara tannery, where leather has been dyed the same way for centuries.
- Thousands of artisans: you can watch copper beaters, weavers, tile cutters and potters at work.
- Birthplace of the 'fez' hat's name and of famous Fassi cuisine like pastilla.
Weather in June–July
June–July: hot, typically 30–38°C (86–100°F) in the day, cooler at night. The medina's narrow covered lanes stay shadier.
Arriving
Fes–Saïss Airport (FEZ) is about 15 km south. Trains from Rabat (about 2h40), Casablanca (about 3h30–4h) and Tangier (about 4–5 hours with a change, or a mix of high-speed and normal trains). Buses with CTM and Supratours.
Getting around
Inside Fes el-Bali everything is on foot (donkeys and mules carry goods: step aside when you hear 'Balak!'). Red 'petit taxis' to reach the gates of the medina and the new city.
Stadium
Fes Grand Stadium
Renovated for the 2025 Africa Cup of Nations and planned upgrades for 2030.
- Capacity
- about 45,000
- Location
- In the south of Fes, in the modern city.
- Getting there
- Taxi from the Ville Nouvelle (about 10–15 minutes) or from the medina gates (about 20–30 minutes). To be confirmed
- Part of a larger sports complex.
- Summer evenings in Fes are warm: light clothing recommended.
Top sights
Bab Boujloud (the Blue Gate)
The iconic tiled gate, blue outside and green inside, entrance to the medina.
Al Quaraouiyine
The mosque-university at the heart of the medina. Non-Muslims cannot enter but can see the courtyard through the doors.
Bou Inania Madrasa
A 14th-century religious school with exceptional carvings and tiles.
Al-Attarine Madrasa
A small jewel of Merinid art near the Quaraouiyine.
Chouara Tannery
Watch the colourful dye pits from the terraces of the leather shops around it.
Tip: You will be offered mint leaves for the smell. A small tip or a look at the shop is expected; no obligation to buy.
Royal Palace gates (Dar el-Makhzen)
Seven huge golden brass doors, one of the most photographed spots in Morocco.
Mellah (Jewish quarter)
With its balconied houses, the Ibn Danan synagogue and the Jewish cemetery.
Merinid Tombs viewpoint
Best panoramic view over the medina, especially at sunset.
Jnan Sbil Garden
A peaceful historic garden between the old and new cities.
Museums
Nejjarine Museum of Wooden Arts and Crafts
In a restored caravan inn (fondouk): carved wood, tools and a rooftop café.
Batha Museum
A 19th-century summer palace dedicated to Islamic arts, with a huge garden.
Borj Nord
A fortress overlooking the medina with a museum of arms.
Dar Adiyel
A historic house linked to Andalusian music.
Food & restaurants
Pastilla
The famous sweet-and-savoury pie with pigeon or chicken, almonds, cinnamon and sugar, a Fassi specialty. Seafood pastilla also exists.
Medina snacks
Bessara soup, fresh bread, msemen, fried fish, and makouda (potato fritters).
Riad dinners
Many riads serve excellent multi-course Moroccan dinners; book in the morning.
Café Clock and modern cafés
Creative Moroccan-international menus, culture events and cooking classes.
Shopping
Leather (tanneries area)
Bags, jackets, babouches. Check stitching and the smell (good leather does not smell strongly after treatment).
Fes blue pottery and zellige
Visit the pottery workshops in the Ain Nokbi area outside the medina to see tiles cut by hand.
Seffarine Square
Copper and brass beaters: trays, pots and lanterns.
Embroidery and textiles
Fes embroidery (terz fassi), brocade and silk-like 'sabra' (cactus silk) scarves.
With kids
Watching artisans
Kids love seeing metal beaten, wood carved and tiles cut. Workshops are everywhere.
Jnan Sbil Garden
Shade, ponds and space to run.
Ifrane & the cedar forest
Day trip: cool air, picnic areas and wild Barbary macaques near Azrou (do not feed them).
Pottery or cooking workshops
Hands-on activities that work well with children.
Day trips
Meknes
About 45 minutes by train. Imperial city with the great Bab Mansour gate.
Volubilis & Moulay Idriss
About 1.5 hours. UNESCO Roman ruins with superb mosaics, and the holy hill town nearby.
Ifrane & Azrou
About 1 hour. Alpine-style town in the Middle Atlas and cedar forests.
Chefchaouen
About 3.5–4 hours. The blue city; better as an overnight trip.
- Meknes & Volubilis: An imperial city and the best Roman ruins in Morocco.
- Ifrane & the cedar forest: Cool mountain air, alpine houses and wild Barbary macaques.
- Merzouga & the Sahara: Golden dunes, camel rides and a night under the stars.
Where to stay
Fes el-Bali (riads)
Historic riads and dars, often with roof terraces over the medina. Best atmosphere.
Near Bab Boujloud
At the main Blue Gate: easy access by taxi, many cafés.
Ville Nouvelle
Modern hotels, wide avenues, close to the train station.
Local tips
- The medina is a maze: download an offline map, and note your riad's nearest gate.
- An official licensed guide for half a day is a good investment in Fes. Ask your riad to book one.
- Young people offering to show you the way usually expect money; politely say 'La, shukran' (No, thank you).
All questions · Fes
Where can I buy leather?
What are the must-see sights in Fes?
Can I visit Chefchaouen, the blue city?
All host cities
- Casablanca الدار البيضاء: Morocco's big, modern city by the ocean, home of the giant new World Cup stadium.
- Rabat الرباط: The calm, green royal capital, with a brand-new stadium and world-class museums.
- Tangier طنجة: Where Africa meets Europe: legendary port city facing Spain across the Strait of Gibraltar.
- Marrakech مراكش: The Red City: palaces, gardens, souks and the magic of Jemaa el-Fna square.
- Fes فاس: The spiritual and cultural capital: the world's largest living medieval city.
- Agadir أكادير: Sunny beach city with a huge bay, gateway to argan forests and surfing villages.